RunOut #138: The Bromance of Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold
Today’s guest is climbing's Captain America, Tommy Cadlwell. Tommy’s latest film is called The Devil’s Climb, and it documents an epic adventure in which he and Alex Honnold rode their bike’s to Alaska and enchained all the summits on the striking and infamous Devil’s Thumb massif. The film was pitched as an environmental film, but the directors decided that global warming was less interesting than Tommy and Alex's bromance. We catch up with one of the world's greatest climbers of all time and hear about making this film, and all the other things in life.
But first, we open up the official record book of climbing, and discuss the recent news of Michaela Kirsh becoming the first woman to do a V15 and 5.15a, Babsi Zangerl’s flash of Freerider, and other achievements.
For our final bit, we're pleased to share the heady music of longtime climber Dave Pomeranz's band, Whale Fall, with their track Chronophobia.
Show Notes
Watch the trailer for The Devil's Climb and stream the whole film on Disney+.
Sign up for Tommy Caldwell's newsletter Routefinding at Patagonia
Michaela Kiersch becomes first woman to send 5.15 and V15
Setting and Revising the Record on Evening Sends
Whale Fall on Bandcamp and Spotify
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast
Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
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1:17:51
RunOut 137: The Revelations of Jerry Moffatt
Today we’re honored to be speaking with Jerry Moffatt. Jerry was one of the most influential and best climbers in the 1980s and ‘90s, whose groundbreaking first ascents pushed the limits and also was incredibly influential on the direction of our sport. His autobiography Revelations is one of the best climbing books ever, and a must read for everyone who listens to this show.
But first, we break down the news of the closures at Mt. Arapiles in Australia. Mt. Arapiles is arguably Australia’s best, most historic crag, and is widely considered to have some of the finest stone of any crag on earth. Now, nearly half of that climbing is being shut down. But why? It’s a complicated question, involving special interests and the government’s unwillingness to rein them in, alongside a general animosity toward climbers.
Last, our final bit is from Seattle based Mamas New Cult featuring Zoey Huynh.
Show Notes
Buy Jerry Moffatt’s book “Revelations”
Visit SaveGrampians.org
Sign this open letter
Change.org Petition
Donate to the Climb Victoria Advocacy Fund
Tattoo Artist Zoey Huynh
Mamas New Cult on Spotify
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
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RunOut 136: Brady Robinson on Climbing, Advocacy, and the legacy of Armando Menocal
Armando Menocal was a civil rights lawyer and climber who helped found the Access Fund. It’s safe to say that without Armando’s silent but hugely significant contributions, climbing would look very different today. Sadly, Armando recently died at the age of 83 from cancer. Here today to help memorialize Armando is Armando’s friend and colleague Brady Robinson. Brady is the former Executive Director of the Access Fund. He is a veteran of numerous expeditions, with first ascents in Pakistan, Patagonia, and Peru. Today he works as the director of philanthropy at the Freja Foundation and is working on conservation projects in South America.
But first, your hosts listen to another climbing podcast, get redpilled, freak out, and launch into a conspiracy of our own about Jimmy Chin and Sandy Irvine. Something’s afoot on Everest …
For today’s final bit, climber / musician Jessica Roki Kilroy is back with Right Here Remix. Roki is a climber and musician from Montana, whose experimental, brooding, emotional folk music incorporates the sounds of the natural world, including those that she captured while on El Cap.
Show Notes
“Remembering Armando Menocal” on Climbing
Cuba Climbing
Armando Fund on Access Fund
Freyja Foundation
The Nugget’s Instagram
Remains of Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine believed to have been found on Everest
Rokifolk.com
Follow Jessica Roki Kilroy on Instagram
Jessica Roki Kilroy Bandcamp
Jessica Roki Kilroy on Spotify
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
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1:24:32
RunOut #135: Becca Steinbrecher: What it’s Like to Survive a Serious Climbing Accident
Last year, Becca Steinbrecher broke a foothold while climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison and took a 30-foot fall onto a ledge. It was only a couple of months later that Becca woke up and learned what had happened to her that day, including the heroic and miraculous search and rescue operation that navigated a thorny web of very tough decisions in order to get her out of the Black Canyon and to a hospital. Becca recounts the events of that fateful as they were told to her, and shares what her experience has been like living with a traumatic brain injury, and ultimately returning back to the sport she loves.
But first, some lighter fare as your curmudgeonly podcast hosts go back for round two of ‘Mudgeon Mania. We roll up our sociologist sleeves and build a taxonomy of different curmudgeons in the climbing world, including: the Hermudgeon, the Newmudgeon, and the Sportmudgeon (all now TM properties of The RunOut podcast but available for a Creative Commons license as long as you support our podcast on Patreon.)
Today’s final bit is from Moab-based rock climber Sam Newman, who created spooky, silly climbing-themed spoof of Edgar Allen Poe’s seminal poem, The Raven.
Show Notes
Climbing.com: Major Accident and Dramatic Rescue in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
YouTube: The Great White Wall: Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Friends of the Black Canyon Search and Rescue Team
Love Your Brain
SOAR
Adaptive Adventures
High Fives Foundation
Craig Hospital
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
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1:11:24
RunOut #134: The State of Adventure and Storytelling with Fitz Cahall
Fitz Cahall is the founder of the Dirtbag Diaries, a podcast that’s been downloaded over 18 million times. His new book is “States of Adventure: 30 outdoor adventure stories about finding yourself by getting lost.”
But first, childless cat ladies may be a topic for some politicians, but we look at the childless climbers bringing their cats to the crags. Suffice to say, crag dogs are not happy, but at least we have figured out what animal is the best crag companion of all.
Today’s final bit comes from Dan Cauthorn’s Seattle-based band Dragontail Peak. Dan climbed Cerro Torre in 1992, which was a major influence on his life, including the inspiration for this song, also called Cerro Torre. Check out Dragontail Peak — links are in Show Notes.
Show Notes
“States of Adventure: 30 outdoor adventure stories about finding yourself by getting lost”
Follow Fitz Cahall on social media
Listen to The Dirtbag Diaries
Dragontail Peak: Bandcamp // Facebook
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]