Chemist Confessions

PLEASE NOTE: In this episode, the original Skinceuticals CE Ferulic formula with only 15% ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid was tested for this episode. We dive into part two of our vitamin C series by putting popular C E Ferulic dupes to the test. Before revealing our side-by-side stability results, we go through a very helpful study from Slovenia examining 41 finished vitamin C products using HPLC testing to compare the quirks of various vitamin C derivatives—including L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. Then we go through our 8 week test findings of 7 CE Ferulic dupes and compare them to the mother formula from Skinceuticals.

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00:00 | Vitamin C Dupes Series Round 3 Overview

01:16 | Slovenian Study: Analyzing 41 Vitamin C Products with HPLC

06:31 | Comparing L-Ascorbic Acid Stability to the Other Vitamin C Derivatives

15:43 | Meet the Contenders: Pricing and Packaging of Popular Dupes

20:15 | Week 0 to Week 8: Accelerated Oven Stability Test Results

24:53 | Pump Disasters, Gas Buildup, and Sedimentation Issues

28:31 | pH Levels and Batch-to-Batch Consistency in Serums

33:23 | Top Affordable C E Ferulic Alternatives We Recommend

35:16 | Final Thoughts on Vitamin C Derivatives and Derivatives Wrap-Up

Don't forget to like, subscribe, and drop your favorite mineral SPF in the comments! #30for30 #SunscreenChallenge #SkincarePodcast

We dive into a science-heavy breakdown of vitamin C formulations, focusing on the recent updates to the gold-standard C E Ferulic serum. We explore the history of L-ascorbic acid efficacy studies dating back to the 1990s by Dr. Pinnell’s lab, highlighting the classic UV-induced erythema protocol used to validate antioxidant skin protection. Then, we analyze emerging clinical data around new CE Ferulic additions: carnosine and dandelion endophytol and discuss the available data to see if the chemists can figure out whether or not this is worth the Skinceuticals price tag.

 

00:00 | Intro! 03:15 | L-Ascorbic Acid: A Brief Review

12:48 | What is Dandelion Endophytol?

25:00 | Carnosine's Clinical UV MED Study

29:30 | Reviewing Carnosine's Clinical Testing

34:15 | The Challenges of Plant Extracts and Actives

38:30 | Chemists discuss CE Ferulic vs. CE Ferulic 2.0

41:45 | The Chemists' Feelings on Patents

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In celebrating our arrival on Soko Glam, we sat down with founder Charlotte Cho to dive deep into the real science, mechanics, and formulation realities behind K-Beauty. We break down the evolution of multi-step routines, the truths behind product categories like toners and essences, and why classic ingredients like snail mucin continue to hold up under scientific scrutiny. From the manufacturing hurdles of hot-pour cleansing balms to navigating US sunscreen filter regulations, we unpack what it takes to formulate effective products amidst viral TikTok trends.

If you enjoyed this deep dive, don't forget to LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, and hit the notification bell 🔔 for more science-backed skincare breakdowns! #sokoglam  @sokoglam  #skincarescience

#sponsored We’re taking a deep dive into the science behind K-Beauty brand Dr. Reju-All!

 

In this sponsored episode, we've partnered with Dr. Reju-All, to share some of their testing behind the products: the Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream and their latest launch, the Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum. We discuss their PDRN ingredient sourcing and why higher concentrations aren't always better—highlighting in vitro and clinical data showing why 1,200 ppm of salmon-derived PDRN is an optimal sweet spot for barrier recovery and hydration. We also analyze their Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum, exploring how encapsulating delicate copper tripeptides helps maintain formula integrity, alongside its clinical results on heat-induced skin stress, elasticity, and fine lines. Finally, we share our real-world user experience on how to layer these unique gel-gel textures into your existing routine. #rejuall #pdrn #copperpeptide

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• Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum: https://amzn.to/4gAJmo6. #drrejuvall #ad #pdrnserum

We’re cutting through the marketing fluff to decode five popular copper peptide serums! In this episode, we analyze the formulas, active ingredient combinations, and clinical data behind products from the Remedy, COSRX, Dr. Reju-All, The Ordinary, and Peach & Lily. We break down what these serums intend to treat, highlight potential formula overlap (like sneaky niacinamide and bakuchiol), and discuss the layering rules you may need to consider for your routine. Hear the chemists' perspective on where peptides fit into a smart anti-aging strategy.

Timestamps

00:01 | Copper Peptide Formula Breakdown Strategy

03:00 | Remedy Copper Peptide Complex Review

06:15 | COSRX Blue Peptide Bakuchiol Serum

15:39 | Dr. Reju-All PDRN Copper Peptide Serum

19:02 | The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides

21:54 | The Orindary Copper Peptide Serum's Layering Restrictions

23:33 | Peach & Lily Copper Peptide Pro Serum

26:24 | Chemists Discuss Copper Peptide Category Efficacy

31:32 | Where Peptides Fit in Your Skincare Routine

 

#GHKCu #CopperPeptides #SkincareScience #FormulationScience #AntiAgingSkincare #SkincarePodcast #ChemistConfessions #30for30 #